Friday, December 31, 2010

Last Year's Resolutions

I've seen lots of posts about resolutions today, about making them about breaking them. I decided to look back at last year's resolutions. Here they are, as I wrote them:


My resolutions for 2010:

Love everyone, trust a few. Do wrong to none. (William Shakespeare)
Play music. Create art. Cook. Write.
Learn. Live. Love. Grow.

Beautiful resolutions. They made me smile a year ago and I'm smiling again now. I did well.

I loved, maybe too much. Loved people I perhaps should have kept at arms distance. But I loved honestly and hard and I don't regret that. The man I still thought I might marry a year ago is now married to someone else. The next man I thought might be the one showed me that he's not ready for the one and if he is, I'm not his "one." I love my son, even as he grows and is no longer my little boy. Even when I lack patience. And I tell him and show him, but I need to do better. Love him in a more attentive way. But I have loved this year and I know that more love put into the universe is a good thing. And I am still hopeful that I will find someone to love, to be my partner, to grow with. I hope it's soon, but I'm working on being patient.

I trusted too much this year. I am still trusting to a fault. But I have learned to protect myself more. To trust to a point, not infinitely.

I have done wrong to a couple of people, not with the intent to hurt them, but out of frustration, out of concern because of a lack of attention. I've made my apologies and I hope to do better this year.

I made more music this year than ever before and found musician friends with whom I can make even more music. Alhamdulillah for the melodies and lyrics that touched my heart and my soul in 2010. I will never forget having tea with Imad and his guitar on one side of me and Diyar and his guitar and voice on the other side of me, both nearly invisible under the cover of night, being surrounded by dust and surprising melodies and lyrics I could only feel and voices singing. And my heart ready to burst with joy. Alhamdulillah for those nights and for Pizza Corner and the guys in the band. Imad told me I'm the best thing that happened to them this year and in a moment of loneliness, that text message made me feel cared for. I celebrated my birthday with Sharhabil Ahmed, the Sudanese King of Jazz.

In my art, writing and cooking, in my other creative endeavors, there were moments of exceptional creativity and a few beautiful bits and pieces came out of those. But nothing finished, completed. And I need to stop wasting time on nonsense when there's so much beauty to be made. So many thoughts and feelings to be shared.

And growing, my last resolution. I am so different from who I was and how I was a year ago. This year I accepted Islam. I prayed and prayed and prayed. I fasted for Ramadan for the first time. I went to the Islamic Festival, visited Canada. Watched my friends go through all kinds of ups and downs and got a little better at being a friend. Set clearer boundaries for my son and he seems to be flourishing, though we still have a ways to go.

But love and music and prayer dominated my 2010. Alhamdulillah.

So this year's resolutions? Do better at some of last year's resolutions. Cook, paint, collage, write, practice guitar, practice singing. Do wrong to none. Pray more. Waste less time. Love my child and pay him more attention in good ways. Get healthier.

And it's bedtime. Welcome to 2011.

Thursday, December 30, 2010

It's the 31st day of December

You and me
We don't flow
yet
Don't swirl together
Easily
No chocolate and vanilla
Ice cream cones here
Instead rocky
Rough
Like winter waters
Windblown waves
Rocky
Choppy
But in
Rare moments
I allow
I myself to hope
That the edges will wear smooth
Polished pebbles
And we will fit
Snugly in each others palms

I want you to know

I love hard
Across oceans
Over mountains and fields
I love hard
But break easily
So always be real




Sunday, November 7, 2010

She doesn't know.

No Images

by William Waring Cuney

She does not know
her beauty,
she thinks her brown body
has no glory.

If she could dance
naked
under palm trees
and see her image in the river,
she would know.

But there are no palm trees
on the street,
and dish water gives back
no images.

She is my friend. And she's hurting. And I can't fix that. But what's bothering me tonight is that she has no idea how amazing she is, how I feel blessed to know her. Not only is her beauty simply stunning, but she's one of the most talented and loving people I've met. She is a poet, a dancer, an artist, a teacher and amazes me in each of these capacities. I hope she'll know one day...

Friday, October 29, 2010

Been too long

It's been so long since I've written. I've been busy teaching, mothering, singing. Writing seems to have fallen out of the equation, dropped from the routine.

My son turned 9 yesterday. He's still the same kid, but it's clear that he's growing older. He is exchanging e-mail with his classmates about who will be invited to his birthday party, whether certain girls like or hate certain boys. I don't know if I'm ready for this. But time passes and I have no choice but to be ready.

I've been singing every Friday with Sudanese Band. It's been fun. I'm getting more comfortable and people are starting to say things like, "I'm a big fan!" which is just amusing. I'm not a singer. Just a teacher who enjoys singing. I'm sure there's a difference. But I like that people actually look forward to hearing me sing, come to hear me. I find it strange, though, knowing how many amazing singers there are in the world. And though I think I sound good sometimes, I personally know many people who are much better singers than I am.

School has been frustrating. I just feel like I am on a different wavelength than so many of the people I work with. For Spirit Week, the senior section had a cupcake eating contest... in a country where people are starving. Then a water balloon fight... in a country which is half desert and poor people sometimes have to pay to get potable water from donkey carts. But we've got more than enough and we're not afraid to waste it openly.

My partner teacher and curriculum coordinator asserted in a recent planning meeting that some kids are just not as smart as other kids and we shouldn't expect that much from them. They couldn't seem to understand why the language of "not smart" was problematic. I know some children struggle with certain academic tasks, but I fully believe that every child has strengths and that intelligence is not a singular attribute. And there are some kids who are amazing thinkers who struggle to complete academic tasks. I mean, Einstein was a terrible student. There is no "smart or not smart." There are degrees of strengths and struggles in every area of the academic and non-academic curriculum. And I feel terrible for the children who have been labeled not-that-smart and who will not be pushed to achieve. (I loved my friend Julie's response to this: Some teachers are just not as smart as other teachers and we simply can't expect as much from them.)

Anyways... my boy wants to swim, so I should get a move on before it gets too late.

Monday, August 30, 2010

We're Missing the Point

These past two weeks at school have been frustrating to say the least. We seem to be missing the point - that we are there for the children, that it is our job to teach them and do what's in their best interest. And most importantly, like doctors, we should do no harm.

But people don't seem to get that. They don't seem to care what's happening to children while we write planner after planner. There were some moments that made me wonder if there is hope for my school, if after all the filling in of planners, we will be able to actually teach. Filling in planners is taking precedence over just about everything else - over the social and emotional well-being of children and families, over good teaching practice, over actual instruction.

And I feel like screaming.

Last week I listened to a teacher berate a child, telling him he does disgusting things and therefore will no longer be allowed to sit next to other children. But wait, it gets worse. The teacher then proceeded to allow the other children to call out all the "bad" things they had seen him do and heard him say.

The same child was later discussed in a meeting where the teacher warned other teachers that this child might "act innocent" but that he knows what he's doing. This after he'd been in her class for just two weeks.

Another teacher chimed in that if ever there were a person that proved that humans were descended from apes, this child was it. "I mean," she continued, "have you seen the size of his hands?!" Giggles, head shaking, but no one said anything. And if you're wondering, yes, the child is black, Southern Sudanese. The tallest and darkest skinned child in the grade. Six years old and already dehumanized, vilified and written off as the "lowest" child in his class.

This amongst discussions of how to increase international-mindedness at our school. Let's cut to the chase about this one - until we deal with the racist undercurrent flowing through our conversations and classrooms, international-mindedness is not going to happen.

Other children are treated badly in other ways. One little girl has been branded a liar. The two non-English speakers in the class are seated with the liar and the child descended from apes. I mean, why not put the problem children together? Make it easier to "help" them?

And what do we discuss at our planning meetings? Do we talk about how to include children who are currently being excluded? Do we talk about how to teach in ways that are appropriate for the grade? (i.e. not having them seated on the rug for over an hour and then moving them to sit at tables for over an hour and wondering why they're not listening...) Do we talk about how to incorporate hands-on, inquiry based learning into an integrated thematic curriculum?

You guessed it. No. We don't. Instead, we write planners: language planners, math planners, reading planners, unit of inquiry planners.

I'm fed up. I can't help but speak my mind. Does it help? Do people consider the damage being done?

You guessed it. No. They don't. They see me as a problem, an instigator. Maybe it's me. Maybe there's a better way to approach the subjects. But I'm fuming. Pissed off.

And I don't know how to say that nicely.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Water

Seems my entire life revolves around water these days:

There's the enormous bottle of water I force myself to drink before the azzan signals the rising of the sun each morning...
And the same bottle refilled and drunk again each night before I allow myself to sleep...
The long days in between, trying to limit my exertion so as to avoid getting thirsty...
The moments - brushing my teeth, showering, performing wudu - when I must make sure I don't drink any water.

What a different Ramadan this has been. I am fasting for the first time. Nineteen days done and 11 more to go. And, alhamdulillah, it's not as bad as I thought it would be. Most years I have anxiety dreams about my classroom before the start of the school year. This year, my only anxiety dreams were about fasting, about going a full day in the Sudanese heat without water.

The funny thing is I don't get that hungry and I don't get that thirsty. The water I drink during the hours of darkness, the food I eat before sunrise sustains me through the day. The hardest part at the beginning was figuring out what to do with my lunch periods and breaks. I never noticed how much time I spend eating, making coffee and tea, sipping throughout the day. In the mid-afternoon, I do find myself getting a little hungry, but it passes. I've lost a noticeable amount of weight, though many people gain during Ramadan. I simply don't have the luxury of staying up all night eating. Work begins at 7:30 a.m..

I find myself thinking about where I will break my fast or what I will cook when I get home. I perform salat, prayer in the morning after I eat and drink, again at the end of the school day, again when I get home, after the azzan calls at maghreb, sunset time and once more before I sleep.

My son, who now proudly calls himself a Muslim, prays with me sometimes. He does salat with me and sometimes says du'a, asking Allah to help him do a 12 second handstand and take care of his family. Every once in a while he says, "I can't believe I'm really a Muslim. My faith is Islam." He is studying about values and religions in his class now. His group will make a poster about Islam.

Ramadan is a blessing. Each day my alarm goes off at 4:00 a.m.. I get up and make myself a strong, sweet, milky cup of coffee. I grab leftovers from the fridge and my bottle of water and walk out to the balcony in the darkness of the early morning. I start up my computer and begin thinking about what quote I will post with the daily countdown of days remaining. And then I begin what is usually a relaxed time of eating, drinking coffee, having water and smoking a couple of cigarettes.

On days when I wake up late, I look like a bullemic on a food binge. I sip my coffee with one hand, smoke with the other. I put the coffee cup down when I reach the grounds and begin stuffing food into my mouth, smoking between bites. Then the water - gulping down water until I can no longer breathe, gasping for air, watching the computer's clock and counting down minutes until the azzan will call. I'm in a panic. I am afraid that I won't make it through the day if I don't ingest enough caffeine, water, protein and nicotine. And having fasted successfully for this many days, I don't want to mess up.

When the muezzin calls, the suhur, the pre-dawn meal is done. I slowly get up, stomach stuffed to capacity, water sloshing around inside me, and go to perform wudu, washing before prayer. I pull on yesterday's skirt and wrap a scarf around me to cover my head and arms. I pray my two rakat. I turn on my bedside lamp and take my Qur'an into my lap, picking up where I left off the morning before. I have read over 1,000 pages since Ramadan began. I read until it is time to wake my son to get ready for school. He smiles at me when I wake him and asks for his back to be scratched or massaged before he stretches and begins to get ready. He often asks me if I drank my water and ate enough.

And that is when the fast begins. I make sure I don't accidentally drink water while brushing my teeth and showering. I make sure I have my scarf so I can pray in school. My son makes sure to pack his lunch and we are off...

School days are full of people fasting and people who are not fasting apologizing for eating and drinking. No apologies necessary, I tell them. I choose to fast. You choose to eat and drink. My fast is not broken by your lunches.

When we return home, after a full day of school, it is time to decide where I will break my fast and with whom. But when the azzan calls for maghreb I am never very hungry, and usually not that thirsty. When I break fast with other people who are fasting, it is a blessing. I feel I am part of a larger community, that I am not alone in the restraint I must exhibit. We pray side by side after eating our dates and drinking juice. In Tuti, with my family, we eat from one tray. At friends' houses and at my house, we have our plates and forks. At restaurants the meal varies. But all of Khartoum listens together for the azzan and breaks our fast together.

I love hosting people in my house, though cooking without being able to taste as I cook is a challenge. We've had the most un-Sudanese iftars imaginable: sushi rolls, cheeseburgers, brownies. Before Ramadan ends, inshallah, I will prepare a Sudanese meal: aseeda and mulah, gurassa and t'aamia.

Tomorrow I will go to the house of the one aunty with whom I have not yet broken fast. The next day, I will break fast with the support staff from my school. We teachers will serve them their iftar. And after that, who knows?

But no matter when I wake up, how much I read or where I break fast, each day is a blessing. Each day I am reminded of my strength and willpower. I am reminded of what hunger and thirst feel like. Each day and night I say my prayers and say dhikr, alhamdulillah 99 times. I ask Allah to help me be content with what is good for me and to help me be content with letting go of what is not. I ask Him to help me to be ready for love and to help me find a person to be my life partner. Each night I pray that I sleep and wake easily. I pray for dreams to guide me.

And next Ramadan, inshallah, I will be ready to fast and to break fast with friends and family.

Alhamdulillah.

Friday, June 25, 2010

Men!

Since I've been back, I've been much more aware of the way men look at me here. In Sudan, many people look at me. Maybe they notice that I'm not wearing hijab. Perhaps my arms are showing along with my hair (but never shoulders!) Perhaps I forgot to line my eyes with black pencil.

But here it is different. Men feel like they have the right to invade my personal space, be it with their eyes or their hands or their words and noises. And I'll admit that there was a time in my life when I found these men's words exciting, they made me feel attractive. But that was back when I needed them to convince me. I no longer have that need. I am in love with my curves, enamored with my own face. Allah made me this way and I need no man to confirm that He made me beautiful, at least in the eyes of those who matter.

Wednesday I was uptown, checking out a Talent Showcase in the park. I left in time to pray at a mosque on 116th St. Lots of Senegalese there. I strolled home down St. Nicholas, picking up a banana from a bodega. My headscarf was on, arms and legs and head covered. I felt his eyes on me before he asked, "Can I have some?" Why? Why did he feel the need to speak to me? Why did he think his invasion would be welcome?

Thursday I headed to Melissa's Going Away Party. Great music, dancing. One man, drunk asked, "Why you not dancing with me? What's good?" His words were slightly slurred and his eyes said everything he was thinking. I kept my distance. Another man, drunk, his wife standing two feet away, tried to whisper his slurred words into my ear. I laughed, telling him to watch himself. He feigned ignorance. I went home.

I went to Friday prayers at the mosque on E. 96th St. I strolled home through the park wearing a black skirt to my ankles and a long-sleeved white shirt. I had my prayer beads in my hand, just purchased from outside the mosque, and was quietly saying my alhamdulillah's. I looked up to see the driver of a van looking back at me while moving. When he saw me look up, he yelled, "Ooooowwwwwwww!" and then drove on. I shook my head, looked back down at my beads. Why can't I just walk? Under my breath, I told him to focus on the road, then continued my peaceful walk.

On Saturday, I met a man at the end-of-year staff party at my old school. He was busy flirting and grinding with the former (female) school security officer and I didn't know him so I didn't bother talking to him, preferring catching up with old friends to making new ones. He introduced himself to me late in the evening. I shook his hand. He asked me to, "Show me how you dance to that." I laughed at him. He persisted. I looked at my friend, asked her to help me out. I didn't want to be rude, but I was tired of his attempt at flirtation. When he poked me in the side, under my rib cage, I no longer cared about being rude. What made him think it was ok to touch me? To tell me to dance for him? I was so disgusted.

I looked around at the other men at the party, thinking one of them might tell this guy to leave me alone, but they were each as bad as he was. Their eyes. Their comments, "But those jeans really were looking good..." Ugh. I took my scarf out of my bag, put it over my head and threw the end over my shoulder. Covered then, all but my hands and face. I wanted to protect myself from their eyes, my ears from their words.

But in truth, there is no protection, only the satisfaction that I have done my best to shield myself. I want to speak up, tell them what asses they are, how disrespectful. If I were their mother or sister, would they accept men talking to me, looking at me in those ways?

Instead, I walked away. I kept my scarf on, in hijab for the first time, for the next three hours, walking home, sitting with a friend outside talking, entering my building. It felt good, comfortable.

I felt good, peaceful.

I want to get married, want to be beautiful and sexy for a man who loves me. Want to care for and be cared for by someone. I don't need or want anyone else's attention, don't want their words or their touches. Don't want to be subjected to their insinuations and flirtations. I have no time and no patience for nonsense.

Inshallah, soon...

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Rain

Here
Each raindrop sounds
Different
As it hits roof top
taptaptap
Or leaf
patapatapata
Or concrete
splat splatsplat
Or window
tip-tip-tip
Or garbage can
tin tin tin

Here rain
Can chill you to the bone
Leave you shivering
Teeth chattering
Body wrapped around itself
Trying to get warm
Rain stays for days
Grey and sad
No blue sky in sight

There
Where earth and skin are
Parched
And dusty
Rain follows the haboob
Clouds of dust like fog
Rolling across the land

Raindrops are welcome
We
Crave rain
To clear and cool the air
Revel in it when it comes
Allow it to kiss and caress us
Mourn when it goes
Watch drops disappear
From the hot ground
Almost instantly
Blink and you might
Miss the rain
Sometimes

And then the rain comes in floods
Surrounding houses
Collapsing walls
Turning football fields
Into lakes
And streets into rivers
Of chocolate colored water
In which children and animals
Seek relief from the scorching sun
Torrents
Forcing families
To retreat into the driest corner
Of their tiny plot of land
And sleep on beds standing in puddles
While their babies wail
And wild dogs bark

Rain falls on dust
shshshshshshshshshshshshshshshsh

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Back in NYC

Feels strange.

I had the hardest time getting dressed today. Everything felt too short or too clingy. Ended up in a short-sleeved dress that hits me at the knee and sandals.

I forgot about men in New York - their eyes and feeling them on me. Men saying stupid things like, "Honey, you dropped something." I had forgotten how seeing my face is not enough, how they turn to check out my ass as I walk past. I had forgotten how uncomfortable their attention to my physical appearance can make me feel, how I can't look pretty for me without getting noticed by them. I cast my eyes down and said nothing. Pretended I had on blinders.

And today I prayed. Again. And again. Five prayers. I had set my alarm for Fejr, the Dawn. I woke up ten minutes before that. So I prayed Fejr. I realized at the street fair that I was way late for the second prayer. I looked up the times, noting that I had 40 minutes left to pray before the next prayer. So I speed walked home, leaving my little sister and mother in Zabar's. I had to go to my sister's apartment because I have no key for mom's place. I searched for something to pray in. The single sheets weren't long enough to use as a
tobe, so I ended up praying in a wrap skirt and hoodie. I prayed again before I left for the birthday party. And again at the party after borrowing a mat. After the party, I rode around the Village and when I got home, I prayed again. Five prayers and they felt good. Better. Al7amdulillah. I find myself wanting to talk about praying.

A week has passed now
and I'm settling back in, though even other people notice something different about me. They tell me I am glowing, relaxed. They are amazed that I pray. One man on the street interrupted the song I was quietly singing to myself to ask what I was singing. "Angel," I told him. "Sarah McLachlan."

"You're not from here, are you? Where are you from?" he asked. I laughed, of course, having been in New York for more than thirty years.

"I'm a New Yorker," I answered.

The conversation continued for the rest of the long crosstown block. I marveled at how easily I could have a conversation with a random man on the street, laughing aloud, without anyone paying us any mind.

There was a man on the southbound 1 train asking for help. He stood, a tall, handsome, broad man in front of the car's middle doors. He held on to the poles on each side of him while he told everyone that his family had recently become homeless. Though they had managed to find housing, they were struggling to put food on the table. I tried to imagine what a father must feel like to have to ask strangers for money to feed his family. I took a single dollar bill out of my purse. Not one other person in the subway car even met his eyes. They purposefully looked away and down and continued conversations. I mean, I know that feeling. I've been all of them in the past. You don't know who to believe and who needs help and who is just scamming you. But this man was asking for food, not money, food to feed his children. And what if I were in his place? To put aside his pride and ask strangers for help...

I handed him the dollar and he thanked me, walked through the car one more time. As he passed me again, he thanked me a second time. As soon as he left the train car, I felt like I could have done more. I tucked a twenty dollar bill into the pocket of my purse and told myself that if I saw him when I got off, I'd give it to him. What can one dollar do to feed a family?

I've added him to the list of people for whom I pray. Along with friends and family, my child and lastly, myself. That I may know which path is the right one and travel along it with strength and peace.

In ten days, I haven't missed a prayer. The words are coming easier. I prayed in Central Park. And I prayed in the mosque. I love to pray :) Last night I prayed that I would get up this morning for Fajr prayer. And this morning, I woke up at 4:50 in the morning. The alarm wasn't set to go off for another 20 minutes. And waking up was easy. As was going back to sleep after I prayed.

I spent time in Central Park, listening to music - Pupy Y Los Que Son Son. I heard Haitian drummers. I heard Afro-Cuban drummers. I laid on a sheet enjoying the cool breeze and the warm sun. I got caught in the rain but didn't mind. After Sudan, I crave the touch of raindrops on my skin.

I've spent time with old friends and new friends, led Sing Along at my old school, met a Mexican-Cuban Muslim woman who trash-talked Puerto Ricans, seen clothing that made me shake my head, seen people dancing salsa in the park, seen a poetry slam at the Nuyorican, sang karaoke and prayed and prayed...

And he is on my mind.

What an amazing summer already. And there's so much more to come, inshallah.

Al7amdulillah.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

With tears in his eyes...

We stood talking beside my latest rental car, this one a silver Hyndai Accent. Definitely not my favorite of the cars I've driven since my wreck.

A man in jelabiya stood a few yards away. He tried to talk to me. "M'aalesh," I said, "''Araby shweya." I gestured toward my friend who actually speaks Arabic and he held out a piece of paper to her. He spoke. I heard little and understood nothing. My friend looked at the paper and at the man.

She then translated for us, "He says his daughter was bitten by a stray cat and she needs an antibiotic and rabies injections. This is the prescription. It says costs 47 pounds and the other five pounds." I knew the request for money was coming, so I walked to the driver side door of my car, opened it and sat down to look in my purse.

I had just changed my living allowance from Sudanese pounds into American dollars so I tried to look for any Sudanese pounds without showing the roll of hundred dollar bills in my purse. I found a ten pound note and handed it to the man with some money from my friend. He asked for more, asked us to go buy the medicine from the pharmacy for him. The audacity, I thought. I shook my head, then got into the car and put it in gear. My friend climbed in from the passenger side as the man walked away.

We began to wonder. What if the man's daughter was, in fact, sick? What if we could have done more? I drove along the dirt road and pulled up alongside the man. I handed him another 12 or 13 pounds, the remainder of the Sudanese money in my wallet. His eyes glistened with tears. He and my friend exchanged thanks and blessings and, again, we pulled away.

"Can we ask in the pharmacy how much is the injection?" my friend asked. I pulled over to McNimir Pharmacy and she went inside. When she returned she reported that each injection was 45 pounds and the girl would need six injections. I shook my head. "Let's go around again. He'll never be able to pay that." I planned to hand the man a hundred dollar bill, enough for the medicine and, inshallah, a bit more.

"What are you going to do?" my friend asked.

"Get the medicine, what else?" We turned right and right again a little further down the road. The man was nowhere to be found. Three times, we circled on different streets, never finding the man.

I can only imagine the pain one must feel as a parent to know your child needs something that you cannot provide. How devastating! I pray I never have to know that feeling.

Inshallah, someone took pity on the man and gave him what he needed. I wish I had taken action when the time was right instead of waiting for it to be too late.

Friday, April 30, 2010

When Nobody is Watching

"I want you to be the kind of person who does the right thing, even when nobody is watching," I told my son tonight. "Do you know why?"

"Because it's the right thing?" he asked.

"Yes, that's it."

I'm frustrated tonight. Angry. Furious. How many times do I have to tell him? Punish him? Talk to him? Praise him? How many times before he gets the point?

No, he didn't do anything terrible tonight, but my patience has worn thin. He didn't beat anyone up or stomp anyone. He didn't have a fight. But I watched him push someone, a girl he didn't even know, because she took a ball he and his friends were playing with. She told him it was hers - in Arabic. He didn't understand. But that doesn't excuse it. That doesn't make it all right for him to put his hands on her. He jumped in front of a six year old girl who was about to sit on a swing. He's not two years old or even five. He's eight f&*%ing years old. Old enough to make better choices.

Why doesn't he get it yet? Why doesn't he understand or have the self control to refrain from lashing out? He should know better by now.

And I told him off on the way home. I was relentless. Maybe even mean. I don't feel good about it. But I was honest with him. When he puts his hands on people, not only does he get in trouble, but he develops a reputation. And the reputation he has right now is not good. And the fact that he is rarely able to take responsibility for his actions means that nobody will believe him if there's a conflict that he didn't initiate. Even I probably won't believe him.

And that feels awful.

I want to believe my child's word, believe that he is kind and caring. But every time I see something like this - him putting his hands on someone for no good reason - I lose faith. For a while.

And I feel like an idiot for trying to defend him, though I have to. If this is what his social interactions in school look like, no wonder they think he's a mean kid. (Not everyone. As he told me the other day, there are some teachers who know he's a nice kid.)

I don't know. I don't know what to think. I want to spend a day as a fly on the wall of his classroom and see what he's like when he thinks I'm not watching.

And I don't know what to do next. What to say to him.

I want him to be the kind of person who does the right thing, even when nobody is watching.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

All the colors of the earth...

Pop Quiz:
Name the continents in size order, largest to smallest.
(answer below)

I was teaching my students to use atlases this Sunday - part of a study of Khartoum. And as I flipped through the atlas with them, I realized there was something wrong with our student atlases. While Europe was covered in great detail - 18 pages of maps - Africa was barely covered. Four pages - two about northern Africa and two about southern Africa.

We counted the pages by twos and then talked briefly about how even though atlases are nonfiction - true - that the people who create atlases make decisions about what they feel is important and, by default, what isn't as important. I printed a map of the world that shows each continent in proper proportion by area. I know this is hard for six and seven year olds to understand, but I also know it's important that they do. What are we teaching kids about the continent we call home?

Monday afternoon, I walked into the Junior School library and noticed, for the first time, that the world map rug makes it look as if Europe is the same size as South America.

And as I walked back into the Infant Section, I saw a teacher posting a display about their Stories unit. The image on the title, clip art of Goldilocks. Inside the room, more images of similar-looking characters. I wonder what children think or absorb when the images they study look nothing like themselves.

We are teaching in an international school but the imagery and even reference materials reflect the lack of diversity that plagues so many schools in so many places. The state of Texas just rewrote history to make the Republicans look good in their new textbooks.

I'll spend this summer searching for new atlases and new stories with brown characters to supplement my classroom library. I've already handed in my wish list for the school library, full of titles by Ezra Jack Keats and including the gorgeous picture book, Mufaro's Beautiful Daughters. I requested poetry by Eloise Greenfield, Arnold Adoff and Walter Dean Myers. We'll order the stunning works of Christopher Myers, Walter's son.

I'll continue to speak for diversity and hope to be heard. And I am grateful that I have allies, other teachers who recognize the importance of children's (brown) faces being reflected in their work. People who know that we must promote a less Eurocentric view, one that respectfully acknowledges the many different kinds of people who make this world such a beautiful place.




Pop Quiz Answer
The continents, from largest to smallest:
Asia
Africa
North America
South America
Antarctica
Europe

Australia

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Listening

Lately, I've been listening too much to peoples' words. The things they say, rehearsed or impulsively. I've been missing out on the sounds of Sudan. The rhythms and choruses and bridges and melodies.

When my son is awake, kerkaba shedeed! So much noise and commotion, until it gets late and he gets tired. But it's nighttime now, and my child is sleeping peacefully, Ikea crocodile on his belly, in the crook of his elbow, one leg crossed, propped up on the other, in a figure four. The aunties and cousins say he sleeps like his great-grandfather did. In his room, there is only the sound of his breathing and the fan.

Here on the balcony, though it's peaceful, there are so many noises around me. Right now, a car is pulling up to the gate, wheels crunching on the gravel. And now the horn will beep, calling the guard to open the door. Surprise. No horn. Reason to get up and peek. An unfamiliar car outside, black, and not a Mitsubishi like the other staff cars. But the voice of the music teacher, Northeast accent, chatting with the guard.

Now the guard, talking on his phone. To someone Sudanese. I understand the greetings, but miss a lot. Aiwa, aiwa, he says. Yes. Yes. He's talking to a woman. Asking about her grandfather. La, la. Ma mushkila. No, no. It's not a problem. Ok. Goodnight.

And back to the sounds of the evening. There's a reksha passing, one of the little mopeds attached to carts, motorized rickshaws that drive around thinking they're cars, or something more substantial, cutting in front of vehicles as if the flimsy metal bars and fake leather will protect them from impact. This reksha is not on the road behind the building, further away, maybe on the diagonal road that leads to our road.

A car is passing on the road to my right, a red gravel road laid by "The Chinese" after the big rains in August and September.

Now quieter. There are crickets and a distant drum that fades in and out. Maybe a wedding. It's only 9:45. Still an hour and fifteen minutes before the music will stop, but it's far away today.

A dog barking, far away. And a cat yelping closer by. I don't think they're related.

A squeak, two or three times in a row, high-pitched, that I hear every night. I'm hoping not bats, but I'm not really trying to find out.

The last call to prayer passed an hour or two ago. The call is repeated five times each day, beginning at the distant masjids and growing closer and closer and louder and louder. The closest mosque is just a few hundred meters away, and the speakers must face this way. If I sleep with my windows open, the azzan will wake me before five. Allaaaaaaahu akbar Allaaaaaaaaaaaaahu akbar... The fajr call to prayer is usually accompanied or preceded by (I'm rarely awake enough to notice) the sound of roosters crowing.

A loud motor. I get up to look. Of course, two rekshas passing in front of the building.

Another dog barking. When my son's dad visited, he asked why the dogs were barking. Why? That's just what they do. Every night, all through the night, in bursts. That particular night, one loud and lonely dog was barking, hearing its own echo, and answering. Over and over and over. That dog gets the prize.

Every so often, a metallic screeching sound fills the air, like rusty machinery starting to move. It always catches me off guard until I hear the "hee" part of the hee-haw that continues for ten or fifteen seconds at a time. They say donkeys bray when they see ghosts. There must be a lot of ghosts wandering Khartoum.

A plane is flying over somewhere, but not close. Just passing by. Planes coming into Khartoum are much louder, passing directly over the city. It's just ten or fifteen minutes from here, down Shar'a Medeni, which becomes Shar'a Ifriqiya, which becomes Shar'a Al-Mataar, or Airport Road.

A sound I can't identify. Like a cricket, but lacking the rhythm. What kind of insect makes that sound?

Three dogs. From three different directions. With three different barks.

Footsteps in the gravel, moving with music, maybe from the guard's mobile. Or a small radio. Habesha music, Ethiopian.

The rattle of me reaching into the bag of organic, fair-trade, dark chocolate covered Mexican and Guatemalan coffee beans, courtesy of mom during her visit. And the crunching of the coffee beans between my teeth. My child told me earlier, "You don't have to worry about me taking them. You can tell me where they are. I hate coffee."

A toddler yelling in the shack across the way.

A man talking.

The dogs barking.

Rekshat and cars.

Another plane.

Another donkey.

Another dog.

Goodnight.


Wednesday, March 17, 2010

When Life Gives You Tomatoes

When Life Gives You Tomatoes

“And I can't go on this way. With it stronger every day,” Hussein sang. “But being too shy to say that I really love you.” She smiled, wondering if the lyrics were his or someone else’s, appreciating the sentiment. “That’s Stevie, you know?” he commented, as if he’d heard her question.

“Really? I’ve never heard that one. It’s beautiful, though.” She turned left onto Medani Road, slid into the right lane and stopped in the dust. “Is this good?”

“Yes, I can get transport from here. Thanks for the ride,” he said, stepping out of the car.

“Anytime. Thanks for the songs! I’ve missed Stevie. Ma as-salaama.”

He closed the passenger side door and walked back along the road to find an amjad that would take him toward Soba. She pulled back onto the road, headed home. She never liked driving along Khartoum’s dark roads at night, eyes squinting against the glare of oncoming high beams, making it impossible to see clearly. Though there were streetlights, they were rarely on due to the inability of the city’s outdated power grid to handle the surge illuminating the lights would demand. Her own headlights did little to make visible what was ahead on the road. Rekshas with no lights and wandering donkeys sometimes appeared suddenly in front of her, so she had forced herself to trust that if there were something in the road she would see it, and that if she saw nothing, the road was clear.

She reflected on the evening as she passed the car dealerships and petrol stations, the CAT construction vehicles. She had sung in public for the second time, with Sudanese Band and Hussein, at a photo exhibition. She smiled at the fact that she’d sung Ain’t No Sunshine, a song that reminded her of spending time with her sister in Australia, many years before. It had been a good evening, but she had been up since six in the morning and had taught a full day before her night out. She was tired and ready for bed.

Her eyes scanned the side of the road, searching for the Matthew Petrol station that would indicate she had reached Shar’a Sitteen, 60th Street. One couldn’t see the actual intersections at night, so it was necessary to memorize the more visible landmarks to find the way home. Matthew Petrol appeared on the right and she downshifted, slowing to look carefully for the break in the divider that would allow her to turn.

Ahead of her, making the left, was a double flatbed trailer. It turned slowly, so she stopped, unable to see oncoming traffic on the other side of the divided road until the truck finished its slow turn. She considered accelerating to catch up with the truck allowing it to block her from whatever unseen vehicles approached on the other side of the road but decided to wait, play it safe. She was just a minute away from the school housing where she stayed with her eight-year-old son, Jibreel. The truck had almost finished its turn and she began to inch forward, eyes looking down the road toward Soba to see if anything was coming.

Suddenly, in her field of vision appeared the grill of a truck. It was immediately clear that impact was unavoidable. As the truck flew at her, she braced herself against the steering wheel and shut her eyes. Crunch!

She opened her eyes. The truck was behind her, in the dust on the right side of the road. The hood of her car was folded upwards, a jagged mountain of metallic blue. She turned the car off, yanked the emergency brake, put her flashers on and jumped out screaming, shaking, furious. She began to survey the damage to her car. “What the FUCK was that?!” she shrieked, aware that no one would understand the words, but sure the truck driver would get the idea. She reached back into the car, grabbing her handbag, stashing her cigarettes and lighter quickly in the inside pocket, lest someone see them.

Her chest heaved. Her hands trembled. She noted that she should have been wearing her seat belt. She looked down at her clothing, wide-legged tan slacks and a fitted sky blue, short-sleeved tee, no tarha to cover her head. She definitely wasn’t dressed appropriately to be standing in the middle of the street at night, though even in hijab it wouldn’t have been acceptable for her to be out, alone at such a late hour.

Men who had appeared from seemingly empty streets began talking, asking if she was ok. “Alhamdulila,” she answered again and again, “Ana tmam. Ana kweysa. Alhamdulila.” Her body continued to tremble, filled with anger and adrenaline. It became difficult to continue to struggle in Arabic, and she told everyone, “’Araby shweya bus. Only a little Arabic. Ma fahma kweys. I don't understand well.”

One bystander stepped toward her, “I am a doctor. Are you ok? You can speak to me in English.”

She responded, “I'm fine. Tmam, alhamdulila. Bus I don't understand what he was doing! Da shinu? What was that?”

Another bystander, “Inti baraki?

Aiwa,” she answered aloud while in her head screaming, “Yes, I’m alone! Do you see anyone else? So what?”

A man in a white jelabiya and turban asked those next to him, “Jinsiyat-ha shinu?

Amrikiya,” she snapped, in standard Arabic, the language she had studied. “Amrikaniya,” she corrected herself, trying to use Sudanese dialect and appear less strange. “I'm American.” Maybe that would explain her clothes and the fact that she was alone, past midnight, driving home.

“I have to make a phone call,” she told them, walking away. She tried to steady her hands, digging through the pockets of her black bag. She scrolled through her contacts, looking for the name of the person whose job it was to help unlucky expatriate teachers with car issues. “Hi, Hamed. I just got hit by a truck. I’m fine, thanks, just a little shaken. But my car is smashed. Khalas. It's finished. Yes, I'm fine. No, I don't need a doctor. Yes, I’m sure. Just send someone, please. Thanks.”

She waited for the call back. The phone rang. It was Hussein. “Are you okay? I saw a car in the road. I just passed by in an amjad, but he didn’t stop. I couldn’t see.”

“Yes and no. That was my car. I’m fine, alhamdulila, but my car isn’t,” she answered, sounding calmer than she felt. “It’s a good thing you weren’t still in the car. I have to go. Waiting for a call back from the school. Take care.”

The call came. She turned to the bystanders, “Jaeen. They’re coming.”

Within minutes, a van appeared with the school’s colorful logo on the side. Khalil, the same driver who had rescued her on the first day of school, when she was lost, was there to rescue her again. In the passenger seat sat Mustafa, the guard she had befriended who had been flirting with her for the past few months, looking very concerned. They talked to her briefly, making sure she wasn’t injured, escorted her to the side of the road and went to talk to the bystanders and occupants of the truck.

As she stood on the side of the road, it again occurred to her that she had been very lucky. But what if she hadn’t been so lucky? A few feet difference would have meant a head on collision with the truck, without a seatbelt on. Her son, home asleep with his 19 year old babysitter, might have been left without her. What would have happened to him? Who would have ensured his safe return to New York, to his father and grandmothers? Tears brimmed in her eyes and began to roll down her face faster than she could wipe them away. She turned away from the people still talking in the street hoping no one would notice.

One of the guards, the one who had been flirting with her, came over and took her hand, asking what was wrong. “Mafi haja. It’s nothing. Bus khaifa shweya. Just a little scared,” she told him, pulling her hand out of his. Sudan was still Sudan and, car accident or not, men and women didn’t hold hands in the street. “Ana bus aiza sijara. I just want a cigarette.”

Mafi mushkila,” he told her, and though she was unconvinced that it wasn’t a problem, she pulled out a cigarette from the gold pack and lit it, avoiding the stares she was sure would ensue by turning her back to the crowd of people still gathered.

He told her they would have to walk to the school, just a minute or two away. They began the walk along the unlit road and he again reached out to take her hand. “La,” she told him, shaking her head. “No.”

His eyes searched her face, her eyes, for a clue as to why she didn’t want his hand. He paused for a moment, quiet, then looked down. “M'alesh,” he said, “Sorry.”

Ma fi mushkila. No problem,” she quickly responded, not wanting him to feel bad, knowing he was doing his best to comfort her in a way he never could during working hours, on school grounds. He always noticed when she was down, no matter how she tried to hide it. She tried to smile and was relieved when the school van turned the corner, invading the unwelcome privacy of the dark street.

A second school driver, one she didn’t know appeared and the driver told her to sit inside the van while they waited for the truck driver to return from his house where he’d gone to retrieve his insurance papers. She sat, relieved and tearful and thirsty, waiting.

When the driver returned, they all – two school vans and the truck – headed for the police station to tell the police there had been an accident. She wondered about the logic of people having to leave the scene of an accident to inform the police that they were needed. And how would an ambulance have been called if it were needed?

On the way to the police station, she realized she was hungry, having eaten lunch many hours before and not had dinner. She asked the driver to stop for a sandwich and a drink and when he did, he refused to allow her to pay. She ate the ful sandwich quickly and washed it down with a Diet Pepsi. “M’alesh,” she said to him, “but I don’t know your name.”

“Aziz,” he answered.

Shukran,” she said, “Thank you, ya Aziz.” She knew all the workers in the school already knew her name, Shereen, Shereen Mohammed. Since her first day at the international school, everyone had been curious to know about the single American woman who seemed to be single, had a child, looked Sudanese and had a Sudanese name, but didn’t speak Arabic and didn’t dress or act like a Sudanese woman.

They continued on to the police station, off the paved roads, squeezing between piles of dirt and rocks from ongoing construction everywhere.

Eventually the police station appeared in front of them, dingy and old. Officers strutted in and out in their crisp uniforms. Two officers embraced each other in a way that would clearly have been identified as gay by the woman’s New York friends, but was perfectly acceptable in Sudan, despite the intense homophobia.

She stayed in the van while he walked in. After some time, two officers followed him out and got into their pick up truck. The small convoy wove its way back out onto the paved road and headed back to the accident site, following the police pick up. When the police pick up turned right instead of left as expected, they saw that they were investigating a small accident between two large double trailers. Though it made sense not to allow the large trucks to travel through the city before midnight, having the large trucks on the seemingly empty streets at night, in the dark, posed its own problems. They sat and waited as the police talked to the drivers of the trucks.

The woman turned to Aziz, gesturing toward the truck that had hit her, “What kind of truck is it anyway? What is it carrying?”

Tamatim,” he answered.

She laughed. “Alhamdulila,” she told him, “Kulluna kweyseen. All of us are fine – the people, the tomatoes, kweyseen.

Alhamdulila,” he agreed.

Sudanese tomatoes from the banks of the Nile river were a thousand times better than watery American tomatoes, and the thought that she might get some made her smile.

They returned to the police station in the middle of the dusty field. The same men squatted outside chatting. They went inside, offering the woman a seat on the metal bench. She retrieved her New York license when it was requested and watched the kittens scavenging for food. A scowling man who looked as if he could be Italian or Greek wandered back and forth with a gash on the bridge of his nose. She wondered if he was the victim of an accident or drunken fight, though the redness of his skin could have been sun and heat-induced.

Her eyes began to close involuntarily and the two school drivers insisted that she rest in the van. She fell asleep almost immediately and after what seemed like just a few minutes, Aziz was waking her to go inside for questioning.

They walked into the station again, turning into a small hallway and then into a room that held two desks and several chairs. She sat in the chair next to the desk. The driver of the truck sat in a chair against the wall.

Two officers entered the room and sat down at their respective desks, assembling the things they needed to take down the accident reports from her accident and another. She thought it quite possible that in every police station in Khartoum officers were sitting down and taking accident reports from the lucky ones, those that were able to make it to the police station.

The shorter officer sat at the desk where the woman, the truck driver and the school drivers were gathered. His brows furrowed in great concentration or self-importance as he took out several sheets of white paper and began using a ruler to draw lines, creating the form he would use to take the report. She was amused, imagining the NYPD creating forms with a ruler and pen each time they had to take a report. She refrained from laughing because it was clear that no one else found this unusual or funny.

He talked to the driver of the truck for quite some time, taking down his information and his version of what happened. He stopped occasionally to ask her to pass the ruler to the officer at the other desk, who was drawing his own lines and taking another accident report, or to ask for the ruler. She couldn’t imagine why each officer didn’t at least have his own ruler. Surely that would speed up the process.

Her officer turned to her and said something. “He want to know if there is damage to your car,” Khalil translated. She laughed quietly, pulling out her mobile phone and showing the officer the picture she had snapped of the folded hood and torn side panel while she waited on the side of the road. When he was done speaking to the truck driver, the officer turned to face the woman.

The officer picked up the woman’s driver’s license. She knew she should have had a Sudanese license but, having returned from a trip to New York less than three months ago, she was safe. “Ismik minu?” he asked, studying the license intently.

“Shereen Mohammed.”

“Shereen Mohammed minu?” he asked.

“Shereen Mohammed Abdelrahim Abdelaziz,” she answered, doing her best to pronounce it properly, sure they thought she didn’t know her full name. But her eldest sister had taught it to her, teased her and coached her until she could say it properly when she first met her. For that she was grateful.

Omrik kam?

Arb’a wa telateen sena, thirty four.”

Inti Muslima wala Mesikhiya?” Muslim or Christian? She wanted to laugh again. “Are those the only possibilities?” she wondered, not daring to ask the question aloud, wanting to say Ana Yehudiya, I’m Jewish, just to see what the reaction would be.

Muslima,” she answered, assuming this was the right answer and thinking that perhaps she was telling the truth.

The questioning continued until the officer felt he had a satisfactory understanding of who she was and what had happened and had jotted it all down on the forms he had drawn up.

He again began to draw lines on a piece of paper, this time with some lines perpendicular to others and she watched intently, wondering what form he was creating this time. After a few more lines were drawn, she saw that it was a map of the intersection where the crash had occurred. He added rectangles to represent the vehicles and arrows to indicate the direction of travel of each vehicle, the truck’s arrow crossing the intersection diagonally and continuing off the road. He drew a circle on the front right corner of the rectangle that was her car to show the point of impact.

Papers were signed and the officer, Shereen, the truck driver and the school drivers walked back to the center of the police station.

There was conversation, but she was too tired to try to understand it. An officer who hadn’t been in the room walked over to the cell, an old fashioned cell, like Old West movies, iron bars forming one wall, the rest concrete. The cell was surely a relic from times of British rule. Inside three disheveled men slept, oblivious to the bustle of the police station. The officer unlocked the door to the cell with a key, swung the door open. The truck driver shook hands with his passenger, the school drivers, then with the woman, saying something apologetic she didn’t understand. He walked into the cell.

Her eyes opened wide. This was not expected. She had come from a place where there were, at least in theory, trials and lawyers, and where – even if she had been present for the crime – she wouldn’t have been present for the actual placing of a man behind bars. She was embarrassed, felt like she bore some of the guilt of this man’s incarceration. Though she knew she was no longer in the States, she couldn’t help but feel some dismay at seeing another Black man behind bars, real bars, not like the prisons she had visited in upstate New York. She cast her eyes down as the officer locked the door behind him, wondering how long he would stay there.

Those that remained free left the station and walked slowly outside. Khalil turned to her, “You are lucky it is not your fault or they would keep you here. But women don’t go inside the cell, they stay outside.”

The passenger in the tomato truck stepped onto the truck’s rear bumper and then scaled the side, pulling down a bucket full of tomatoes. He emptied these into a large yellow shopping bag and insisted that the woman take them. She thanked him, shaking his hand, trying not to laugh. She had gotten her tomatoes after all.

She climbed back into the school van, grateful that she could finally go home. It was already past five in the morning. The driver drove slowly and the woman was irked. She wanted to get home. The roads were empty. Why were they traveling at half the speed limit?

And then the driver began to talk, “If it is possible but I would like to know you more. I not marriage. I would like you to marriage me.”

She shook her head, thinking he must be joking. “You don’t know me,” she said.

“That is not important. In Islam you have look four things when a man want to married. One is beauty of the woman. Two is her din, her religion. Three is her acts, what she does. Four is family. Inshallah we can know each other more in time.”

She wanted to just say, “No. Leave me alone. Take me home. Drive faster.” She wanted to say, "I've already got someone in mind." Instead she said, “I don’t want to marry now. When I marry I think I need to marry someone who knows Sudan and the West, both sides of me, or they can’t know me.”

He continued to explain why he wanted to marry her and she continued to wish that would arrive home faster. She told him who her friends in school were because he wanted to talk to them about marrying her and made a note to herself to tell her friends to tell him she wasn’t interested.

By the time they arrived, she was done, wanted to run away from the van, the man trying to marry her and the tomatoes. The building guard and driver walked her up to her apartment, carrying the five kilos of tomatoes. She was relieved when they left and she locked the door behind them.

She looked in at her son and his babysitter, sleeping peacefully. She grabbed her laptop, logged in, and sprawled out on her balcony floor. She began chatting with friends in New York, telling them about what a night she’d just had. She thought that tomorrow, she’d make a big pot of tomato sauce and give away lots of tomatoes. When life gives you tomatoes, make sauce.

The silence behind her to fill with the sounds of the the azzan, the call to prayer for fajr, the dawn, “Allah u akbar…” Roosters welcomed the coming sun. She lit one last cigarette thinking, only in Sudan, and readied herself for bed.

Alhamdulila, she thought. Alhamdulila.

Friday, March 5, 2010

Signs




I went to Haj Yousif today, to my aunty's house for fatour. After eating, I lay next to my cousin on one of the many beds, catching up, the topic of my impending conversion at the forefront of my mind. I told her, I don't want to be Muslima the Sudanese way, the way some people are here. I don't want to convert for show, to practice for people to see me. I want to do it from my heart, because I believe and when I am ready.

People here have little choice. They must appear Muslim whether they believe in their hearts or not. And many choose it and live it. And many make no choice and follow and cover because they must appear to others to be good Muslims. And some proclaim that they are Muslims and lie and commit adultery and steal and judge others and harm their brothers and sisters with no repentance, no regrets. In actuality, it's not just Sudan and not just Islam. In every place, within every religion and group, people proclaim and follow their proclaimed beliefs to varying degrees.

I kissed everyone and left my son there with the family so I could go to my horse back riding lesson. I was trying to get back quickly so I could change out of the long skirt I was wearing into sweatpants and a t-shirt.

Lâ ilâha illallâh, Muḥammadur rasûlullâh, I said as I drove, trying to get my mouth around the words, say them properly. Lâ ilâha illallâh, Muḥammadur rasûlullâh. I sped along shar3 sitteen, street 60, weaving through traffic, telling off stupid drivers. When a dingy, graying white car drifted into the left lane just behind the amjad in the right lane, I was forced to slow down. I was irritated to say the least, my progress stalled.

I high-beamed him. This doesn't work well in the daytime. I tried to go around him, but couldn't. Ugh, I said to myself. Stupid drivers. And then I looked at the car again, at the back window with a huge decal in Arabic.

I smiled. Of course. Lâ ilâha illallâh, Muḥammadur rasûlullâh, I read. And read again.

And the car slid into the right lane, allowing me to pass.

Yes, a sign.

Friday, February 26, 2010

Pac and the Rose

I wear jeans
I wear tob
I make music
And food

I get lost
Find my way
Arrive home
And I’m good

Ana masha shoghol
Wa bika
Wa fatour
M3a amaati

Wa supermarket
Wa Open Mic
Wa Ozone
Wa Bahry

Every night
I pack lunch
For my son
Give him kisses

But I know
I can’t be
All the people
He misses

Drum rhythms
Become
the beats
of my heart

I don’t want it
to end
I don’t feel
Feel when it starts

I teach children
to read
and to care
and to sing

I plant seeds
and ideas
We discuss
Dr. King

I share words
from my heart
with folks
I don’t know

To untangle
My thoughts
And discern
Where to go

I whistle and
sing and
Laugh loud
When I can

انا من نو يورك (Ana min New York)
بيتي في السودان (Wa beiti fi Sudan)

I am flourishing
blooming
in the dust
in the heat

Like Pac
and the rose
that grew from concrete

Monday, January 25, 2010

Bint Hamid

After discussion of theories about a ground missile bringing down another Czech plane, "It is worth noting that there was a strikingly similar case: OK-DBF, the Ilyushin Il-62 plane of Czech Airlines' Flight 542 crashed off Damascus on 20 August 1975." (http://www.stormfront.org/forum/showthread.php?t=436139)

This is flight my father was on when it crashed, when he died - the last time my aunties and uncles mourned the loss of a favorite brother, their eldest brother; When my sisters, the twins, lost the man they most loved, the man who loved and protected them; when my mother lost her husband, the father of her unborn child.

Most of the websites say it just crashed into the ground, close to the airport because of pilot error or for unknown reasons. Here's one description of the crash, "A particularly unfortunate accident due to language missunderstanding between the control tower and the CSA crew which resulted in an incorrect altimeter being set. Preparing to land at Damascus at midnight, the crew believed the airport to still be at a far lower altitude, and the plane flew into the ground 17 kms short of the runway. There were only two survivors." But I remember my mother saying the plane was bombed and something about celebrating the Czech Revolution. At first I thought mom was just talking conspiracy theories, but it seems that other people have some similar theories about the flight.

It doesn't really matter, does it? How my father died. It only matters that he died, leaving his children without their father, his wife without her husband, his parents without their eldest son, and people in countries around the world mourning his loss. It matters not how he died, but that he never saw me, never knew my name, my gender, my birthday.

I hope he died instantly, that he never felt pain. I hope he never had time to think about all he was leaving behind and how much sorrow his loss would cause them. I hope he loved each of us and was thinking of us and smiling in his last moments.

He never knew my name, never held me. He thought I would be a boy, calling me Neruda (as in Pablo) in his postcards, love notes to my mother from at least 20 different countries. (Here is a collage of some of the postcards.)

I have just his name, and I carry it proudly. I am بنت حامد - bint Hamid, Hamid's daughter.

I am of my father, though, and I'm taught that time and time again. My passions were his passions. Perhaps my vices, too.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Bika

My Uncle Omer died. I didn't know him. I wish I had. For the past few days, I have heard stories about Omer. Perhaps somewhere inside, people knew he would go and that it was time to pass on memories. My sister talked about being a little girl in Hungary and how passionately she loved Omer, jumping on him and kissing him every time she saw him. My brother talked about spending time there with Omer pouring him drinks and walking away so he could drink without Omer seeing him. I began to like Omer through these stories and looked forward to hearing more.

And then I got the calls that Omer had died, unexpectedly, because of a gas leak at his farmhouse. At 11:00 I headed off to Tuti. I wrapped myself in a tobe and left my son with his babysitter. My brother met me and we drove together.

I heard the wailing before we walked into the house, as soon as we opened the car doors. And immediately wanted to turn around. I wanted to stay outside with my brother, with the men chatting in chairs. I wanted to be in the easy place, not with the women - half of whom I didn't know - wailing and sobbing and hugging.

I walked in, eyes scanning the women in tobes, in darkness, trying to find the familiar faces. My cousin first, sobbing, hugged me. Then the next cousin. Then aunties, each wailing and pushing me into the arms of the next auntie. Or great auntie. Or neighbor. My mind wondered if they thought I was strange, my eyes dry, not able to work up tears for a man I didn't know, though I wish I had. Though my aunties' grief was real, I questioned the wails of the people whose faces I didn't recognize as they sobbed on my shoulder. Did they know my uncle? Did they love him as his sisters had? Their tears - turned on for each new hug and off as soon as they let go - couldn't be genuine. I couldn't work up a single tear while I embraced woman after woman after woman. And though I tried, I felt like a liar for even trying.

My heart was breaking for my aunties, for my beautiful cousin and her mother in Hungary. And my aunties' words, those I could understand, were so sorrowful - Why did you leave, Omer, and not return? I miss you, Omer, child of my mother. You left, you never came back. I miss you, abuy, my father. I miss you Hamid. Hamid, my father, who died 35 years ago, was the last sibling to die. I never knew him either. My aunties' words caused tears to roll down my face, if only for a few minutes and I felt relieved that maybe I was part of them, had cried with them.

Day 2 of the bika: I wore tobe again. My son was with me and I warned him that there would be crying, that the aunties would want to hug him and that he should let them, even if he felt like running away. We drove up to find a tent and at least 50 or a hundred chairs set out for the men. Cars and pick-up trucks everywhere. Beautiful Sudanese men in white jelabiyas with turbans or kufis, depending on their age, chatted and drank tea outside. My uncle, the eldest, sat with them, eyes red, but tears not visibile. I wanted to stay outside, wanted to avoid the wailing women, but after a few brief salaam 3leikums had to go inside. It was louder inside the house than it had been the night before. More crowded with women I didn't know, and some that I did, wailing, moaning. As we approached the house, my child commented that the noise sounded like laughing. It wasn't though. We walked in. He found a chair to sit in with his DS and play. I walked from auntie to auntie, hugging, holding hands. Women from my sisters' and brother's family were manning the kitchen, serving food. A huge pot of shai bilebban, tea with milk, spanned the four burners of the stove. A neverending cycle of glasses was filled, emptied by the guests, and washed. I stayed for as long as I could stand it, and my cousin escorted me out, assuring me that it was ok to leave, that everyone knew I had work in the morning. On the way out, one auntie grabbed my son, crying, smothering him in her ample body. And he allowed it until she was ready to let go. I was impressed and relieved that he didn't push her away and run. I thanked him as we drove home, telling him how much it meant to her to be able to hug him.

Day 3 was almost as packed, but the tent was gone. My son stayed in my aunties house with the men. He walked in and I followed him to give him instructions: Be quiet. Don't turn on the TV. Listen to instructions. Come to the other house if you need me. Then my cousin, my man told me to go to the other house, as if I couldn't see that I was the only woman there. I greeted several men in the living room. Ana jiddik, I'm your grandfather. Ana ammik, I'm your uncle. Salaam 3leikum, 3leikum assalaam and I was ushered out the back door to the women's house, to where I belonged.

My youngest uncle arrived from Um Rwaba while we were there. He walked into the house to greet some of the women, but stood frozen, grief-stricken against the wall surrounding the garden and house. He must have been about 10 when Uncle Omer left to go to Hungary. I didn't know if I was supposed to, but I put my arms around him and held him as he sobbed. If I couldn't cry for my uncle who died, I couldn't help but cry for my youngest uncle, the only man whose grief was evident.

Jibi moya
, bring water, my aunties instructed after I greeted the guests in the salon. And when I got to the kitchen to get water, my cousins asked how many guests, how many glasses. I didn't know, but I made a note to count next time, having been reminded of how many small things I didn't know about being a Sudanese woman, a hostess.

Day 4 I skipped the bika. I took my child to his horseback riding lesson and then to dinner. I think we were both relieved to have a normal evening at home, relaxing, getting ready for school the next day.

Day 5 my son didn't want to go, but we went anyway. It was quieter. Most people had already come to pay their respects. The cousins were, as always, busy in the kitchen. I was envious that they were able to stay in the kitchen, busy, helping, without having to be amongst the tears. The mood of the houses and area between them had changed. Fewer tears, quieter wails, more conversation. Some laughter, even. Aunties no longer hyperventilating, smothered by guests. Grief quieter, subsiding.

Day 6, my son was happy to go because he'd be picked up from Tuti for a sleepover. Still plenty of people. Everyone calmer except my auntie who had arrived from Saudi Arabia during the night. She knew Omer best, I think, because she spent time with him in Hungary. Her grief was calm, her face reflecting nothing but pain. Her little girl tried to make her smile, dancing, wrapping herself in my tar7a, scarf, but it was as if she wasn't even there. I stayed for a while. Hugged and kissed everyone over and over, then went home to my empty, quiet house.

And today I will go again.

And then we will return to the routine, dinner once or twice a week. Chit chat and gossip. Memories of Omer, I hope, shared with me by those who knew him.

Perhaps my cousin and her mother will come to share their grief with the family. Perhaps I will finally meet my Uncle's wife. I will be grateful for more time with my swirly cousin, and perhaps she will be grateful for me, the half-Sudanese cousin, with whom she can talk openly, easily, about how she feels and what she needs.

I love my Uncle, even if I didn't know him. His face was kind and welcoming. Omer Mohammed Abdelaziz, my father's brother. I hope they are together in Heaven with my sister and grandfather. Allah yer7amhum... May God's mercy be upon them.