Friday, March 5, 2010

Signs




I went to Haj Yousif today, to my aunty's house for fatour. After eating, I lay next to my cousin on one of the many beds, catching up, the topic of my impending conversion at the forefront of my mind. I told her, I don't want to be Muslima the Sudanese way, the way some people are here. I don't want to convert for show, to practice for people to see me. I want to do it from my heart, because I believe and when I am ready.

People here have little choice. They must appear Muslim whether they believe in their hearts or not. And many choose it and live it. And many make no choice and follow and cover because they must appear to others to be good Muslims. And some proclaim that they are Muslims and lie and commit adultery and steal and judge others and harm their brothers and sisters with no repentance, no regrets. In actuality, it's not just Sudan and not just Islam. In every place, within every religion and group, people proclaim and follow their proclaimed beliefs to varying degrees.

I kissed everyone and left my son there with the family so I could go to my horse back riding lesson. I was trying to get back quickly so I could change out of the long skirt I was wearing into sweatpants and a t-shirt.

Lâ ilâha illallâh, Muḥammadur rasûlullâh, I said as I drove, trying to get my mouth around the words, say them properly. Lâ ilâha illallâh, Muḥammadur rasûlullâh. I sped along shar3 sitteen, street 60, weaving through traffic, telling off stupid drivers. When a dingy, graying white car drifted into the left lane just behind the amjad in the right lane, I was forced to slow down. I was irritated to say the least, my progress stalled.

I high-beamed him. This doesn't work well in the daytime. I tried to go around him, but couldn't. Ugh, I said to myself. Stupid drivers. And then I looked at the car again, at the back window with a huge decal in Arabic.

I smiled. Of course. Lâ ilâha illallâh, Muḥammadur rasûlullâh, I read. And read again.

And the car slid into the right lane, allowing me to pass.

Yes, a sign.

Friday, February 26, 2010

Pac and the Rose

I wear jeans
I wear tob
I make music
And food

I get lost
Find my way
Arrive home
And I’m good

Ana masha shoghol
Wa bika
Wa fatour
M3a amaati

Wa supermarket
Wa Open Mic
Wa Ozone
Wa Bahry

Every night
I pack lunch
For my son
Give him kisses

But I know
I can’t be
All the people
He misses

Drum rhythms
Become
the beats
of my heart

I don’t want it
to end
I don’t feel
Feel when it starts

I teach children
to read
and to care
and to sing

I plant seeds
and ideas
We discuss
Dr. King

I share words
from my heart
with folks
I don’t know

To untangle
My thoughts
And discern
Where to go

I whistle and
sing and
Laugh loud
When I can

انا من نو يورك (Ana min New York)
بيتي في السودان (Wa beiti fi Sudan)

I am flourishing
blooming
in the dust
in the heat

Like Pac
and the rose
that grew from concrete

Monday, January 25, 2010

Bint Hamid

After discussion of theories about a ground missile bringing down another Czech plane, "It is worth noting that there was a strikingly similar case: OK-DBF, the Ilyushin Il-62 plane of Czech Airlines' Flight 542 crashed off Damascus on 20 August 1975." (http://www.stormfront.org/forum/showthread.php?t=436139)

This is flight my father was on when it crashed, when he died - the last time my aunties and uncles mourned the loss of a favorite brother, their eldest brother; When my sisters, the twins, lost the man they most loved, the man who loved and protected them; when my mother lost her husband, the father of her unborn child.

Most of the websites say it just crashed into the ground, close to the airport because of pilot error or for unknown reasons. Here's one description of the crash, "A particularly unfortunate accident due to language missunderstanding between the control tower and the CSA crew which resulted in an incorrect altimeter being set. Preparing to land at Damascus at midnight, the crew believed the airport to still be at a far lower altitude, and the plane flew into the ground 17 kms short of the runway. There were only two survivors." But I remember my mother saying the plane was bombed and something about celebrating the Czech Revolution. At first I thought mom was just talking conspiracy theories, but it seems that other people have some similar theories about the flight.

It doesn't really matter, does it? How my father died. It only matters that he died, leaving his children without their father, his wife without her husband, his parents without their eldest son, and people in countries around the world mourning his loss. It matters not how he died, but that he never saw me, never knew my name, my gender, my birthday.

I hope he died instantly, that he never felt pain. I hope he never had time to think about all he was leaving behind and how much sorrow his loss would cause them. I hope he loved each of us and was thinking of us and smiling in his last moments.

He never knew my name, never held me. He thought I would be a boy, calling me Neruda (as in Pablo) in his postcards, love notes to my mother from at least 20 different countries. (Here is a collage of some of the postcards.)

I have just his name, and I carry it proudly. I am بنت حامد - bint Hamid, Hamid's daughter.

I am of my father, though, and I'm taught that time and time again. My passions were his passions. Perhaps my vices, too.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Bika

My Uncle Omer died. I didn't know him. I wish I had. For the past few days, I have heard stories about Omer. Perhaps somewhere inside, people knew he would go and that it was time to pass on memories. My sister talked about being a little girl in Hungary and how passionately she loved Omer, jumping on him and kissing him every time she saw him. My brother talked about spending time there with Omer pouring him drinks and walking away so he could drink without Omer seeing him. I began to like Omer through these stories and looked forward to hearing more.

And then I got the calls that Omer had died, unexpectedly, because of a gas leak at his farmhouse. At 11:00 I headed off to Tuti. I wrapped myself in a tobe and left my son with his babysitter. My brother met me and we drove together.

I heard the wailing before we walked into the house, as soon as we opened the car doors. And immediately wanted to turn around. I wanted to stay outside with my brother, with the men chatting in chairs. I wanted to be in the easy place, not with the women - half of whom I didn't know - wailing and sobbing and hugging.

I walked in, eyes scanning the women in tobes, in darkness, trying to find the familiar faces. My cousin first, sobbing, hugged me. Then the next cousin. Then aunties, each wailing and pushing me into the arms of the next auntie. Or great auntie. Or neighbor. My mind wondered if they thought I was strange, my eyes dry, not able to work up tears for a man I didn't know, though I wish I had. Though my aunties' grief was real, I questioned the wails of the people whose faces I didn't recognize as they sobbed on my shoulder. Did they know my uncle? Did they love him as his sisters had? Their tears - turned on for each new hug and off as soon as they let go - couldn't be genuine. I couldn't work up a single tear while I embraced woman after woman after woman. And though I tried, I felt like a liar for even trying.

My heart was breaking for my aunties, for my beautiful cousin and her mother in Hungary. And my aunties' words, those I could understand, were so sorrowful - Why did you leave, Omer, and not return? I miss you, Omer, child of my mother. You left, you never came back. I miss you, abuy, my father. I miss you Hamid. Hamid, my father, who died 35 years ago, was the last sibling to die. I never knew him either. My aunties' words caused tears to roll down my face, if only for a few minutes and I felt relieved that maybe I was part of them, had cried with them.

Day 2 of the bika: I wore tobe again. My son was with me and I warned him that there would be crying, that the aunties would want to hug him and that he should let them, even if he felt like running away. We drove up to find a tent and at least 50 or a hundred chairs set out for the men. Cars and pick-up trucks everywhere. Beautiful Sudanese men in white jelabiyas with turbans or kufis, depending on their age, chatted and drank tea outside. My uncle, the eldest, sat with them, eyes red, but tears not visibile. I wanted to stay outside, wanted to avoid the wailing women, but after a few brief salaam 3leikums had to go inside. It was louder inside the house than it had been the night before. More crowded with women I didn't know, and some that I did, wailing, moaning. As we approached the house, my child commented that the noise sounded like laughing. It wasn't though. We walked in. He found a chair to sit in with his DS and play. I walked from auntie to auntie, hugging, holding hands. Women from my sisters' and brother's family were manning the kitchen, serving food. A huge pot of shai bilebban, tea with milk, spanned the four burners of the stove. A neverending cycle of glasses was filled, emptied by the guests, and washed. I stayed for as long as I could stand it, and my cousin escorted me out, assuring me that it was ok to leave, that everyone knew I had work in the morning. On the way out, one auntie grabbed my son, crying, smothering him in her ample body. And he allowed it until she was ready to let go. I was impressed and relieved that he didn't push her away and run. I thanked him as we drove home, telling him how much it meant to her to be able to hug him.

Day 3 was almost as packed, but the tent was gone. My son stayed in my aunties house with the men. He walked in and I followed him to give him instructions: Be quiet. Don't turn on the TV. Listen to instructions. Come to the other house if you need me. Then my cousin, my man told me to go to the other house, as if I couldn't see that I was the only woman there. I greeted several men in the living room. Ana jiddik, I'm your grandfather. Ana ammik, I'm your uncle. Salaam 3leikum, 3leikum assalaam and I was ushered out the back door to the women's house, to where I belonged.

My youngest uncle arrived from Um Rwaba while we were there. He walked into the house to greet some of the women, but stood frozen, grief-stricken against the wall surrounding the garden and house. He must have been about 10 when Uncle Omer left to go to Hungary. I didn't know if I was supposed to, but I put my arms around him and held him as he sobbed. If I couldn't cry for my uncle who died, I couldn't help but cry for my youngest uncle, the only man whose grief was evident.

Jibi moya
, bring water, my aunties instructed after I greeted the guests in the salon. And when I got to the kitchen to get water, my cousins asked how many guests, how many glasses. I didn't know, but I made a note to count next time, having been reminded of how many small things I didn't know about being a Sudanese woman, a hostess.

Day 4 I skipped the bika. I took my child to his horseback riding lesson and then to dinner. I think we were both relieved to have a normal evening at home, relaxing, getting ready for school the next day.

Day 5 my son didn't want to go, but we went anyway. It was quieter. Most people had already come to pay their respects. The cousins were, as always, busy in the kitchen. I was envious that they were able to stay in the kitchen, busy, helping, without having to be amongst the tears. The mood of the houses and area between them had changed. Fewer tears, quieter wails, more conversation. Some laughter, even. Aunties no longer hyperventilating, smothered by guests. Grief quieter, subsiding.

Day 6, my son was happy to go because he'd be picked up from Tuti for a sleepover. Still plenty of people. Everyone calmer except my auntie who had arrived from Saudi Arabia during the night. She knew Omer best, I think, because she spent time with him in Hungary. Her grief was calm, her face reflecting nothing but pain. Her little girl tried to make her smile, dancing, wrapping herself in my tar7a, scarf, but it was as if she wasn't even there. I stayed for a while. Hugged and kissed everyone over and over, then went home to my empty, quiet house.

And today I will go again.

And then we will return to the routine, dinner once or twice a week. Chit chat and gossip. Memories of Omer, I hope, shared with me by those who knew him.

Perhaps my cousin and her mother will come to share their grief with the family. Perhaps I will finally meet my Uncle's wife. I will be grateful for more time with my swirly cousin, and perhaps she will be grateful for me, the half-Sudanese cousin, with whom she can talk openly, easily, about how she feels and what she needs.

I love my Uncle, even if I didn't know him. His face was kind and welcoming. Omer Mohammed Abdelaziz, my father's brother. I hope they are together in Heaven with my sister and grandfather. Allah yer7amhum... May God's mercy be upon them.

Thursday, December 31, 2009

New Year's Eve

Cooking with my little sister. Getting ready for the New Year's party.

Contemplating trust and love here in New York and a day and night away, in Sudan. I called him to say Happy New Year, to bring the Sudanese New Year in with him, even if I'm not there. And it left me wondering who he's spending time with. Because when I told him I love him - because I had to say it - he said, "Okay." He told me there are millions of people. For me, those millions wouldn't matter. Love is love. And which of those millions of people was listening to his conversation? I know I called just before the stroke of midnight. I know whoever was there with him might have been jealous. I don't care. I have the right. 12:00 a.m. January 1 is mine. I know. It's spiteful and immature of me. I know he has already shown by his actions that I'm not his priority. I know I shouldn't have expected anything more of him than what I got. Maybe even getting through was more than I should have expected.

And yet I'm still hurt. Nothing new and nothing I won't get past.

He could redeem himself. He could call me at my midnight and profess his love, but I'm guessing that won't happen.

I found out another person I thought I could trust is not worthy of that trust - well, two more people, no three, actually, maybe four. It's like - you think you know a person's limits and can trust them because they love you unconditionally. And then you find out they have no limits. Boundaries don't exist. They will do anything or anyone to gain a few minutes or hours of reprieve from the demands of their lives, from the pressure of their own choices. They told me I deserved better than what I was being given turned around and gave me worse - quietly, secretly, behind my back.

Am I hurt? Of course I am. But I'm no longer surprised. Not overwhelmed. It is what it is. They are who they are. I am still going to be who I am. Not spiteful nor vengeful. Seeking peace and love.

My resolutions for 2010:

Love everyone, trust a few. Do wrong to none. (William Shakespeare)
Play music. Create art. Cook. Write.
Learn.
Live. Love. Grow.

Monday, December 21, 2009

Back in NYC

It's cold. Really cold. But not as bad as it could be, I guess. I should probably wear a hat. That might help, but the thought of putting on a hat pisses me off. And scarves make me feel like I'm choking. So I'll probably just stay cold. Really cold.

When we got in yesterday, the best part was seeing my son and his dad's reunion. Big hugs and huge smiles all around. It's been a really long time. My child was so excited for the last hour of the flight he could barely contain himself.

We came back home to dinner with family and a couple of friends. Spicy tuna rolls are so good! Indian food followed the sushi. Everyone was happy to see us back, whole, happy.

And today I was out all day and most of the night. A good decision on my part, I think, even though I was tired. I figure I should take advantage of every invitation and chance to see people during these two weeks. I picked up a guitar. Met up with some friends. Hung around downtown.

The best part is being able to be incognito without even trying. Most people pay me very little mind, and I think I appreciate that. One exception was the man, a custodian sweeping the sidewalk who told me, "When you get home, tell him they only let out one angel a day..." I laughed. Five months since I heard a line like that. Couldn't make sense of it, but it was funny. I kind of missed the voices of Black men flirting as I walk down the street.

I feel different in New York. My forehead is wrinkled. My body is tense - which could be related to the weather. I walk too fast. The wind and rain piss me off, make me angry as soon as I walk outside. I need sun and warmth. In Sudan, I am physically comfortable. The sun feels good on my skin. I like not having to bundle up before I walk outside. My feet feel good in sandals.

I'm enjoying my family. There's a different kind of comfort that comes from familiarity. The comfort of watching my son play with his cousin. The comfort of holding my little niece in my arms as she babbles and smiles. The comfort of having coffee with mom in the morning. Walking to the corner store.

I now realize I will forever have two homes. I don't yet know what that will mean to me, but I know it's important.

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Swirly Cousin


One thing that's been really nice for the past couple of days... nights, really, is having rooftop chats with my cousin who is visiting from Hungary. She is mixed, the child of my father's brother and a Hungarian woman. And she, like me, sees Sudan from two perspectives. At least two perspectives.

We went to a wedding party last night with my man and another cousin. My cousin from Hungary and I spent the whole night laughing - then shushing each other - then laughing because we shouldn't have been laughing loud enough for people to hear. And my man was clearly wondering what was so funny. And I told him some of what was funny, but a lot of the laughing was at his expense, so I couldn't share it.

She left last night. I wished she could have stayed longer, with me, away from the family. I cried at the airport, couldn't stop. I'll admit that most of the tears were just waiting to fall, the product of being dumped by the man I love. But knowing she was leaving made me feel that much more lonely, without someone to help me process this breakup.

But there was more than that. She and I are mixed, of two cultures. We want to know the Sudanese side, but are products of the West. This allows us to view Sudan and its culture with a critical eye, something most Sudanese do only superficially. Men here eye us cautiously, tantalized by our lighter skin and curly hair - uncovered. The old women want to show us off and feed us. Young Sudanese women long for the freedom that being different affords us, even if they don't know what that freedom entails.

We have lived and loved much more than most Sudanese women our age. We have had boyfriends and been in love and been hurt. And with each other, we can talk about it freely. And I haven't been able to do that very often here.

One of our aunties paraded us around last night at a wedding party, telling us to greet person after person. Di bint Hamid, wa di bint Omer. This is Hamid's daughter and this is Omer's daughter. She was so proud that we were there. She showed off her English, the few words she has picked up from me and Oprah and Dr. Phil. We trailed her obediently, smiling and shaking hands, being covered in kisses by the older women. We knew that it made our auntie happy and were willing to be dutiful nieces. But we giggled about it, shook our heads. And it just felt good not to be alone, to have someone with whom I could share the experience.

We danced, my cousin jumping up and down and flinging her head with a fist pumping the air - rocking out. I shook my hips in true Salsa style, both of us noting that we didn't hear the rhythms of the music like everyone else did. And we didn't care what anyone thought.

Not caring - one of the things we both agreed separated us from the rest of Sudan. We don't care what people think. We are respectful. We love our family and try not to embarrass them. But we don't function based on what other people think. We are who we are and neither of us is ashamed of that.